3-thread fleece (molton)

3-thread fleece is a knit with a smooth face, a binding yarn in the middle and a thicker yarn on the back that is brushed to create the fluffy pile. The three yarns give the fabric thickness, warmth and stability, more than a 2-thread fabric. In Romania it is called 3 fire or flausat, depending on how it was brushed.

It is the classic choice for winter hoodies, thick tracksuits and pieces that must keep warm. It is heavier than french terry, so it is less suitable for summer. When ordering stock or a lot, ask to see both the face and the back.

The number of threads refers to the layers in the knit structure. The 2-thread fabric has a face yarn and a loop yarn on the back, so it is lighter, more breathable and thinner. The 3-thread fabric adds a binding yarn, so it is thicker, more stable and warmer, especially after brushing.

For autumn, spring and lighter garments 2-thread is usually chosen. For winter and pieces that must keep warm, 3-thread. Ask for both swatches and compare the back, the thickness and how well each keeps its shape.

For fleece and the brushed inside of a sweatshirt (3-thread), a finer base yarn is normally used on the outer face and a thicker, lower-twist yarn for the inner layer that gets brushed. The inner yarn is chosen with low twist and fibres that open up easily.

For the outer side ring-spun cotton is typical, and for the inside carded or open-end cotton or a polyester blend. The quality of the inner yarn affects warmth, bulk and pilling. Ask which yarns go into each layer and request samples from the same lot.

French terry (2-thread) hoodies are typically 240 to 330 GSM, while 3-thread fleece with a brushed inside is typically 260 to 380 GSM. Above 350 GSM you are in heavy winter or streetwear territory.

A range of 280 to 320 GSM is a common starting point for brand hoodies because it gives body and drape without being too costly. For light sports sweatshirts or summer tops, 200 to 250 GSM is used. Do not compare french terry and fleece directly: at the same GSM the feel and warmth differ, so ask for samples.

A hoodie is considered heavyweight from about 350 GSM; between 400 and 500 GSM people speak of very heavy hoodies in the premium streetwear or American vintage style. Regular hoodies sit at 280 to 320 GSM.

The extra weight brings warmth, body and a premium look, but also higher fabric consumption and more difficult cutting. In 3-thread fleece the weight is felt more than in french terry. Check whether the quoted GSM was measured before or after relaxation, and ask for a sample so you choose the weight by drape and not only by the number.

Brushing, or raising, is a mechanical treatment with wire or bristle rollers that lifts fibres from one or both faces of the fabric and creates a fluffy, warm layer. It is used on sweatshirts, tracksuits and 3-thread fleece, where the fibre layer traps air and increases insulation. It changes hand, thickness and appearance, but it can slightly lower strength and raise the pilling tendency if the fibre is short. Good yarn and the right degree of brushing matter more than aggressive raising. Specify exactly what you want: light, medium or strong.