Single jersey fabric for t-shirts

Single jersey is the simplest circular knit: one set of needles forms a fabric with V-shaped knit stitches on the face and rounded purl-looking loops on the back, which looks flatter and duller. It is light and soft, stretches more across the width than along the length, and curls at cut edges.

It is the base structure for t-shirts, tops and summer garments. It cuts and sews quickly, and the smooth face prints well. It does not have the dimensional stability of interlock.

Pointelle is a knit with small, regular openings formed by moving stitches from one needle to another, creating a decorative pattern, usually floral or geometric. It is an openwork knit, thin and airy, with a delicate look. It is made on machines with double beds or with a transfer mechanism.

It is used for women's tops, children's and baby clothes and summer tops. Because it is delicate, the openings can enlarge when pulled or snagged, so test stability on a swatch and sew without forcing the stretch.

Knitted mesh is a fabric with small, regular openings formed by the stitch structure rather than perforation. Eyelet is the variant with larger, visible, eye-shaped holes. The openings promote air circulation and moisture release, which is why they are used in sportswear and in areas that must breathe.

Mesh is light, airy and dries quickly, but it is more delicate than a compact jersey. On a swatch check opacity, snagging and distortion after stretching. It suits sports t-shirts, linings and ventilation panels.

The diameter of a circular knitting machine, expressed in inches, determines the width of the fabric tube. The larger the diameter, the more needles and the wider the tube. As it leaves the machine, the tube is flat or slit open, and the usable width also depends on the needle count and on finishing.

In practice the final width after dyeing and finishing is smaller or larger than on the machine, depending on the knit. When ordering, ask for the finished tubular or open width, not the machine diameter. The usable cutting width is what matters for your consumption.

A knitted sweater is produced directly on flat machines in the shape of the piece, with no cutting or minimal cutting, with lengths and shapes controlled during knitting. A cut-and-sew garment is made from circular knitted fabric, cut into pieces and sewn. The first method gives pieces with coarser stitches and more pattern options, the second is faster and cheaper for large runs.

Alteks Tricot supplies fabric for cut-and-sew garments, sold by the kilogram. For fully fashioned pieces, look for a knitwear manufacturer.

In weft knit, one yarn forms stitches row by row across the width of the fabric, as in jersey, interlock or french terry. It is stretchy and soft but can unravel if a stitch breaks. In warp knit, each needle has its own yarn running along the length of the fabric, as in tricot or raschel.

Warp knit is more stable, does not unravel easily and is used for lingerie, nets and technical fabrics. Everyday garment fabrics, such as those from Alteks, are circular weft knits.