As a new brand, start with small quantities from stock, ask for swatches and the stock list, then move to made-to-order production once you have proven demand. Tell the supplier openly how large your runs are and what the fabric is for; a serious supplier can guide you to the right article.
Write the specification, approve the swatch and lab dip before volume, get the terms in writing (price, minimum, lead time, payment) and keep an approved swatch. Start with a small trial order to check quality and communication before a large run.



