Cut, make and trim (CMT), known in Romania as lohn, means you supply the fabric and trims while the workshop cuts and sews. It is the most common model for small and mid-sized brands in Romania. You need no machinery or staff of your own, you keep control of the fabric, and you can produce close to your market with short lead times. It only works, though, when the relationship with the workshop is built on clear information rather than assumptions.
What CMT means for a hoodie in practice
In a typical CMT order, responsibilities split like this:
- you: the design, the pattern or a specification for it, main fabric, rib, trims, labels and packaging;
- the workshop: marker making, cutting, sewing, finishing, possibly pressing and packing;
- both: the sample, its approval and quality control at hand-over.
Some workshops offer extras, such as pattern making or buying trims. Agree in writing what is included in the price per piece and what is charged separately.
The tech pack: the document that protects you
The tech pack is the full description of the hoodie. For a CMT order it should contain at least:
- A technical drawing, front and back, with every detail.
- A measurement chart by size, with tolerances.
- Main fabric, rib and trims, with codes and colours.
- Seam and finish types for each area.
- Label and decoration positions.
- Folding and packing instructions.
- Quantities by colour and size.
A good tech pack cuts the workshop's questions and gives you an objective basis at goods-in: anything that does not match the tech pack is a non-conformity, not a matter of taste.
The sample and the pre-production sample
No serious workshop starts a run without an approved sample. The usual process:
- first sample: check fit, measurements and construction;
- corrections: pattern changes, recorded in the tech pack;
- pre-production sample: sewn in the real production fabric with all trims and labels;
- written approval: sign or confirm by email the sample that becomes the reference for the lot.
Keep one approved sample yourself and leave one at the workshop.
The fabric you send
The workshop works with what it receives, and fabric problems surface most often at cutting. A few rules:
- send fabric from one lot for the whole order or, if that is impossible, mark the lots;
- calculate quantities with the workshop, based on marker consumption plus an allowance;
- send rib that matches the main fabric's shade;
- ask the workshop to let tightly rolled fabric relax before cutting.
For a transitional hoodie, an example of a fabric that is easy to work with is our petrol green french terry, 250 g, combed cotton with elastane. It has a consistent usable width, cuts cleanly and sews without trouble on standard knitwear machines, and at 250 g/m² it makes a hoodie with body for spring and autumn. For comparison, see the french terry family and matching rib in the rib and cascorse family.
Making price and lead time
The CMT price per piece depends on the complexity of the style, the quantity and how well the order is prepared. A hoodie with a double hood, kangaroo pocket, zip and many operations costs more than a simple style. Small quantities carry a higher price per piece because set-up is spread over fewer garments.
Ask the workshop for a written date for each stage: sample, approval, start of the run, hand-over. In peak season for autumn hoodies, book capacity at least a month ahead.
Goods-in inspection
At hand-over, spot-check, for example, 10% of pieces in each size: measurements against the tech pack, seams, label positions, cleanliness (loose threads, oil marks) and packing. Record any non-conformities and report them straight away with photos. A clear inspection process, known to the workshop in advance, prevents arguments later.
Supplying the fabric
For short runs, fabric can be bought by the roll from our stock in Afumați with no minimum and delivered by courier straight to your workshop anywhere in Romania. For large runs in your own colour, the article can be made to order from 150 kg per colour. For a quote, send a quote request.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between CMT and full package production?
With CMT, you supply fabric and trims and the workshop cuts and sews. With full package, the manufacturer also buys the materials and delivers a finished product. CMT gives you more control over fabric and costs, but also more logistics responsibility.
How much fabric should I send for a hoodie order?
The quantity comes from the marker consumption for the sizes and quantities ordered, plus an allowance for waste and possible rejects. Ask the workshop for the calculation in writing before you buy the fabric.
How do I choose a CMT workshop for hoodies?
Look for workshops that already sew knits, not only wovens, ask to see work made for other clients and order a paid sample first. Check their capacity in peak season too, and whether they are willing to work strictly to your tech pack.
