On a T-shirt, a 20 gram error in consumption costs pennies. On a heavy fleece hoodie the same percentage error can mean more than a euro per piece and hundreds of kilos on a large order. That is why hoodie fabric consumption is worth calculating carefully, piece by piece, before you ask for a fabric quote.
The pieces of a classic hoodie
A pull-over hoodie with a kangaroo pocket usually has:
- front and back;
- two sleeves;
- the hood, in two or three pieces;
- the kangaroo pocket;
- optionally a hood lining, often in single jersey;
- cuffs and a waistband in rib or cascorse, calculated separately.
The first four groups are cut from the main fabric and make up most of the cost. Rib is calculated on its own line because it has a different weight, a different width and often a different price per kilo.
Area-based calculation: a hypothetical size L
Let's assume the following pattern areas for size L:
- front: 0.45 m²;
- back: 0.45 m²;
- sleeves: 2 × 0.22 = 0.44 m²;
- hood: 2 × 0.13 = 0.26 m²;
- pocket: 0.08 m².
That is 1.68 m² in total. On a 340 g/m² fleece the net weight of the pieces is 1.68 × 0.34 = 0.571 kg. The marker will not be perfect; at 82% efficiency, gross consumption becomes 0.571 ÷ 0.82 = 0.70 kg per hoodie.
If the hood is lined with 160 g/m² single jersey, add 0.26 × 0.16 = 0.042 kg net, roughly 0.05 kg gross. That is a separate line on the cost sheet, priced at the jersey rate.
Why consumption differs by size
For the same style, size S might use around 0.60 kg and XXL 0.80 kg or more in our hypothetical example. If you sell a lot of large sizes, for instance for winter uniforms, average consumption rises. Calculate consumption for each size and take an average weighted by the order's size ratio, not by size M.
What pushes consumption up
- Oversized fits: dropped shoulders, long sleeves and a wider body can add 15–25% more fabric.
- Double hoods or big pockets: large pieces that are hard to nest.
- Fabric width: if the width does not suit the piece widths, strips are left unused along the edge.
- Grain direction: fleece pieces cannot be rotated freely, because the brushed back and the face yarn have a direction. That limits how pieces can be laid.
- Shrinkage: if patterns are enlarged to allow for shrinkage in washing, the area grows.
- Weight: for the same style, a 340 g fleece uses about 30% more kilos than a 260 g one.
From consumption to cost
With average consumption of 0.70 kg and a hypothetical price of €9 per kg, the main fabric costs €6.30 per hoodie. Add rib (say 0.10 kg), the hood lining if there is one, and a few per cent for end-of-lay losses and defects. For 300 hoodies, the quantity to order would be 300 × 0.70 × 1.03 = 216 kg of main fabric, rounded to the rolls available.
This is also where a real marker pays off: a gain of just 3 percentage points in efficiency on 216 kg saves about 8 kg of fabric.
Checking after the first run
After cutting, compare the kilos used with the number of good pieces. If you used 225 kg for 300 hoodies, real consumption is 0.75 kg and the cost sheet must be corrected before the next run. Keep the large offcuts: they can become pockets, kidswear panels or samples.
For the example above we used a 340 g brushed 3-thread fleece in stone beige, a winter weight that gives a hoodie drape and warmth with a soft brushed inside. Because it is a heavy fabric, consumption per piece is high, so an accurate calculation matters more than on lightweight garments. You will find it on the stock list, sold by the roll with no minimum, and other weights are in the 3-thread fleece range. For cuffs and waistbands, see our rib and cascorse.
The figures in the examples are hypothetical and only illustrate the calculation. They are not Alteks Tricot prices: we quote the price per kg of each article on request, usually the same working day. Ask for a quote
Frequently asked questions
How much fabric do I need for 100 hoodies?
It depends on style, sizes and weight. In our hypothetical example, with average consumption of 0.70 kg per piece at 340 g/m², you would need about 70 kg of main fabric, plus a few per cent for losses and the rib for cuffs. Calculate from your own patterns before ordering.
Is the hood lining calculated separately?
Yes. The lining is usually cut from single jersey, which has a different weight and price per kilo from the fleece. Put it on its own line on the cost sheet with its own consumption, so you can see exactly what it adds and compare the lined and unlined versions.
Is a french terry hoodie cheaper than a fleece one?
Consumption in kilos is often lower, because french terry is usually lighter. The price per kilo may differ, though. Compare the cost per hoodie, not just the price per kilo, and keep in mind the season and the hand feel you want.
