#Patterns & sizing
Every The Knit Journal article about patterns & sizing, for clothing brands, workshops and entrepreneurs.
Starting a clothing brandBuilding a team for a new clothing brand: hire or outsource?
A clothing brand needs more skills than one person can cover, but no more staff than it can afford. The trick is knowing what to keep in your own hands.
Starting a clothing brandSampling budget: how much to set aside for first-collection samples
Samples are where mistakes are still cheap. Budget for them properly, or you will make the same mistakes later in production, where they cost far more.
Starting a clothing brandHow to set the size ratio for your first clothing production run
A badly split size run is the most expensive way to be both sold out and overstocked. A well-thought-out ratio protects the margin of your first collection.
Starting a clothing brandJoggers for a debut collection: fabric, fit and cost
Joggers look simple, but they draw the most returns for baggy knees and slipping waistbands. Here is what decides whether yours succeed.
Starting a clothing brandHow to develop a heavyweight oversized tee as your debut product
The heavyweight oversized tee is the hero product for many new brands. The gap between one that looks premium and one that just looks big lies in the details.
Starting a clothing brandWhat to put in a tech pack for your first clothing collection
The tech pack is the only document the workshop has in front of it when you are not there. Anything missing from it gets decided by chance.
Garment manufacturingHow to write a measurement chart and tolerances for knitwear
The measurement chart is the document a client uses to accept or reject your goods. With knits, which stretch, the method matters as much as the numbers.
Garment manufacturingPattern making for knits: allowing for stretch and shrinkage
The same pattern gives a perfect tee in one fabric and a tight one in another. The difference lies in stretch, shrinkage and the tests you run before cutting.
Garment manufacturingHow to grade knit patterns for T-shirts and hoodies
A perfect base size does not guarantee a good size run. Grading decides whether the S and the XXL look as good as the approved sample.
Garment manufacturingHow to calculate rib length for necklines, cuffs and waistbands
A wavy neckline or a waistband that stretches out within a month is almost always a calculation problem, not a sewing problem. Here is how to set the ratio.
Garment manufacturingHow to run a fit session and write fit comments for knitwear
A well-run fit session cuts weeks off development. A rushed one produces vague comments, remade samples and an unhappy client.
T-shirtsHow to make an oversized t-shirt: pattern, fabric and weight
Many brands start with a basic tee scaled up and end up with a shirt that just looks too big. A good oversized tee starts from a pattern drawn for it.
T-shirtsBoxy fit t-shirt: how to build it and which fabric to use
Boxy is the square silhouette many new brands want. It is easily confused with oversized, but it has different proportions, a different pattern and different fabric needs.
T-shirtsMen's slim fit t-shirt: pattern, fabric and fit
The gap between a slim fit that flatters and one that feels tight comes down to a few well-placed centimetres in the pattern and the right fabric.
T-shirtsWomen's t-shirts: fits, shaping and choosing the jersey
A women's tee is not a men's tee made smaller. Shoulders, bust, length and fabric all need their own decisions, and every fit follows its own logic.
T-shirtsT-shirt rib neckband: how to stop crew necks stretching out
Customers never see the GSM or the yarn. They do see a neckline that has stretched out after three washes. A stable neck is decided in fabric, cutting and sewing.
T-shirtsV-neck, crew or scoop: how t-shirt necklines are constructed
The neckline changes the character of a tee more than any other detail. Each shape has its own construction, its own risks and its own sewing time.
T-shirtsHow to control shrinkage in cotton jersey t-shirts
Cotton shrinkage cannot be removed entirely, but it can be measured, limited and built into the pattern. Disciplined testing makes the difference, not luck.
T-shirtsHow to build a t-shirt size chart and grade it
A size chart is both a production document and a sales tool. Done well, the workshop and the customer read exactly the same numbers.
T-shirtsT-shirt print placement and print size for every size
The same 28 cm print looks perfect on a large and huge on an extra small. Correct placement is decided in the tech pack, not at the press.
Hoodies & sweatshirtsHow to calculate rib cuff and hem lengths for hoodies
A rib band cut 3 cm too long ripples; one cut too short puckers the body. Getting the calculation right takes five minutes.
Hoodies & sweatshirtsHow to construct a hood: panels, lining and neckline
The hood is the most visible part of a hoodie and the first thing that looks wrong in photos. A well planned construction makes it sit right on the head and on the shoulders.
Hoodies & sweatshirtsHow to sew a kangaroo pocket that stays flat and strong
The kangaroo pocket looks like the simplest part of a hoodie. That is exactly why it is often rushed, and ends up sagging, tearing at the corners or bulging.
Hoodies & sweatshirtsHow to pattern an oversized boxy hoodie that hangs right
A good oversized hoodie is not a regular hoodie graded up two sizes. It has its own proportions, designed around volume.
Hoodies & sweatshirtsHow to make joggers: fabric, waistband and cuffs
Joggers are the tracksuit piece that wears out fastest and comes back most often. Most problems start at the waistband, the knees and the cuffs.
Hoodies & sweatshirtsHow to stop fleece hoodies shrinking after washing
A hoodie that comes out of the wash a size smaller means returns and bad reviews. Shrinkage cannot be eliminated completely, but it can be controlled.
Hoodies & sweatshirtsHow to make a crewneck sweatshirt: neckline, sleeves, hem
With no hood and no big pocket, a crewneck has nowhere to hide mistakes. The neckline, the shoulders and the hem must be spot on.
Hoodies & sweatshirtsHoodie measurement points and size grading explained
Two people measuring the same hoodie can get different numbers. Clearly defined points of measure and logical grading end the arguments with your factory.
Polo shirts & uniformsKnitted, rib or self-fabric collar: how to choose a polo collar
The collar is the first thing a customer notices and the first thing that gives away a cheap polo. The type you pick affects cost, lead time and looks.
Polo shirts & uniformsHow to sew a polo shirt placket: types and step-by-step method
A crooked placket is visible from two metres away and cannot be fixed once it is topstitched. Here is how to plan and sew it right first time.
Polo shirts & uniformsSide slits and drop-tail hems on polos: how to make them right
Side vents and a longer back are small details that change how a polo hangs. Done badly, they tear, ripple and come undone after a few washes.
Polo shirts & uniformsPolo shirt fit: classic, regular or slim, and how to spec each
Slim and regular never mean the same thing at two factories. To get the fit you want, you have to describe it in centimetres, not adjectives.
Polo shirts & uniformsHow to make a women's polo shirt that actually fits
The most common complaint about women's polos is that they look boxy. The fix lies in the pattern, the fabric and a handful of small details.
Polo shirts & uniformsHow much fabric does a polo shirt use? Calculating consumption
Piqué is bought by the kilo but cut by the metre. Bridging the two is simple once you know which figures to ask for and where the losses hide.
Polo shirts & uniformsHow to make a long-sleeve polo shirt: pattern, cuffs and fabric
It is not just a polo with longer sleeves. Weight, sleeve head, cuff and consumption all change, and every mistake shows at the wrist.
Polo shirts & uniformsHow to write a tech pack for a polo shirt
A good tech pack answers the workroom's questions before they are asked. An incomplete one is paid for in remade samples, delays and lots that do not match.
Polo shirts & uniformsStaff uniform size runs: how many of each size should you order?
Uniform orders rarely go wrong on fabric and often go wrong on sizes. A correct size run saves money, time and awkward conversations with staff.
Kidswear & babywearBaby clothing sizes by age and height: sizes 50 to 98
Size 68 does not mean six months; it means 68 centimetres tall. The distinction sounds technical, but it decides how many returns you get and how many parents come back.
Kidswear & babywearKids' sizes 104 to 164: how to build the size chart and grading
Children do not grow in proportion: a four-year-old and a twelve-year-old have different shapes, not just different dimensions. Your grading has to reflect that.
Kidswear & babywearHow to make a baby bodysuit: pattern, fabric and construction
The bodysuit is the backbone of every babywear range. It looks simple, but it is a sequence of operations where every detail ends up against a baby's skin.
Kidswear & babywearThe envelope neck on baby bodysuits: how it works and how to cut it
Overlapping shoulders are not a decorative detail. They let a bodysuit pass over a baby's large head and be pulled down over the body when needed.
Kidswear & babywearNeckbands, cuffs and bindings for kidswear: using rib
The neckband is the first thing a parent looks at and the first thing to lose shape. The right ratio between rib and neckline is set on a sample, not by eye.
Kidswear & babywearShrinkage in kidswear fabric: measuring it and building it into patterns
A tee that drops a size in its first wash is not just a complaint; for a child it is a garment that no longer fits. Shrinkage is measured before cutting, not after.
Kidswear & babywearGirls' leggings and dresses: elastane jersey, weight and cut
Leggings that go see-through at the knee and dresses that sag after a month share one cause: fabric chosen for its colour rather than its recovery.
Kidswear & babywearHow many sizes should a new kidswear brand launch with?
Every extra size multiplies stock, patterns and risk. Your size range is a business decision first and a technical one second.
Kidswear & babywearHow to reduce returns and size exchanges in kids' e-commerce
Every return costs shipping, handling and sometimes a garment that can no longer be sold as new. With children's clothing, most returns share one cause: size.
Kidswear & babywearHow to expand a babywear brand into 3–12 years kidswear
A babywear brand loses customers at exactly the moment they become loyal: the child grows up. Expanding into 3–12 years keeps them, if you do it in small steps.
Loungewear, pyjamas & activewearHow to make rib tank tops and vests that keep their shape
A rib vest looks like the simplest item in the range. The difference between one that lasts a year and one that sags in three washes is all in the details.
Loungewear, pyjamas & activewearElastic, drawcord or rib: choosing waistbands for lounge pants
Customers only notice the waistband when it digs in or the trousers slip down. That is why it deserves as much care as the fabric itself.
Loungewear, pyjamas & activewearHow to produce matching family pyjamas in one colour lot
A family in matching pyjamas notices straight away if the child's green is not the parents' green. It all comes down to how you plan the dye lot.
Loungewear, pyjamas & activewearMen's loungewear: which fabrics and fits actually sell?
The men's loungewear segment is smaller than women's but more loyal. A man who finds the right lounge trousers tends to buy them again for years.
Loungewear, pyjamas & activewearNightshirts and oversized sleep tees: fabric weight and sizing
The oversized sleep tee has become a product in its own right. What separates it from an ordinary tee worn big is proportion and fabric.
Loungewear, pyjamas & activewearWomen's knitted briefs and bralettes in rib: a production guide
Cotton rib underwear sets have put comfort ahead of push-up. For a small brand, they are a realistic way into the underwear category.
Loungewear, pyjamas & activewearMaternity and nursing loungewear: fabrics and design tips
Maternity loungewear is a small niche with highly motivated customers. Products that solve real problems get recommended by word of mouth.
Loungewear, pyjamas & activewearSizing fitted activewear: negative ease and grading explained
In fitted activewear, the pattern is smaller than the body. How much smaller depends on the fabric, and a few centimetres of error turn into returns.
Loungewear, pyjamas & activewearRib knit sports bras and crop tops for low-impact training
A yoga bra is not a running bra. Understand support levels and you choose the right fabric, and you never promise more than the product can deliver.
Loungewear, pyjamas & activewearWhich fabric for gym and running shorts?
Shorts look like the simplest sports product, but their uses differ hugely: weight matters for running, toughness for the gym and drape for the street.
Loungewear, pyjamas & activewearOversized gym pump cover tees: fabric and pattern guide
The boxy tee worn over a vest at the start of a session has become the unofficial uniform of strength gyms. Whether it looks deliberate or sloppy comes down to fabric.
Costing, pricing & marginsHow much fabric does a hoodie need? Calculating consumption
The hood, the kangaroo pocket and heavy fleece make the hoodie the garment where a consumption error costs most. Here is the calculation, piece by piece.
Costing, pricing & marginsMarker efficiency: how your cutting layout drives fabric cost
The fabric between the pieces costs exactly as much as the fabric in them. Marker efficiency shows how much of what you bought actually ends up in garments.
Costing, pricing & marginsWhat does sampling cost and how do you spread it per unit?
Samples are paid for once but must be recovered from every piece you sell. Here is how to budget for them without fooling yourself on price.
Costing, pricing & marginsHow the size ratio changes your average cost per garment
If your cost sheet starts from size M but you sell plenty of L, XL and XXL, real cost is higher than you think. The size ratio fixes that.
Costing, pricing & marginsHow to split a production order by size and colour
You can get the total quantity right and still end up with stock: too many smalls, too few larges. The size split is a financial decision, not just a production one.
Quality, compliance & sustainabilityHow to test knitted fabric shrinkage before you start cutting
A T-shirt that loses a size after the first wash is not bad luck, it is a skipped test. A shrinkage test costs an hour and a piece of fabric.
Quality, compliance & sustainabilityHow to write a measurement chart with tolerances for production
Without a measurement chart and tolerances, 'the tee is too short' is just an opinion. With one, it is a measurement anyone can check.
Selling & marketing in RomaniaHow to build an accurate size chart for your online shop
A size chart copied from another brand does not describe your garments. Here is how to build one from real measurements and make it easy to use on a phone.