Winter babywear: brushed fleece for pramsuits and overalls

Winter babywear is a category of its own: it has to keep a baby warm who is not moving, go on quickly over a bodysuit and sleepsuit, and not irritate face and hands. Alongside padded jackets, a large share of sales comes from fleece all-in-ones and sets worn indoors, in the pram or as a mid-layer. For a workshop they have the advantage of being made on the same machines as the rest of the knitwear range.

What brushed 3-thread fleece is

3-thread fleece has a smooth jersey face and a back made of a thick filler yarn, tied in by a third binding yarn. On the back this filler yarn is brushed, raising a soft nap that traps air and keeps warmth in. Compared with french terry, which has unbrushed loops, brushed fleece is warmer and softer inside.

A shaving finish, applied after brushing, shortens and evens out the nap and reduces loose fibres. In babywear, where fluff easily ends up on faces and hands, this step is a real advantage.

Choosing the weight

• 250–280 g/m²: lounge sets, tops and trousers for autumn and indoor winter wear.
• 280–320 g/m²: pramsuits and winter all-in-ones worn over other clothes.
• Above 320 g/m²: becomes stiff for small sizes; used more for older children.

In sizes 56 to 74 a heavy weight makes dressing harder and wrists bulky, so many makers go slightly lighter than for bigger sizes.

Composition

Fleece is often a cotton-polyester blend. Polyester, usually placed in the filler or binding yarn, helps the fabric keep its shape and dry faster, while the face and the brushed inner nap are mainly cotton. Check the data sheet for the exact composition and the fabric's safety documentation for baby articles.

Design details for all-in-ones

1. Fastening. A long zip from neck to ankle, possibly down both legs, with a full inner guard and a chin guard.
2. Hood. Fine on outerwear but with no cords; a rib binding at the edge helps it stay on.
3. Fold-over cuffs. At hands and feet, so fingers and toes are covered without separate mittens and booties.
4. Ears and appliqués. Only if stitched all round, with no small detachable parts.
5. Room for layers. The pattern must allow a bodysuit and sleepsuit underneath without tightness.

Construction

Heavy fleece needs different settings from jersey: heavier ballpoint needles, lighter presser-foot pressure and differential feed set so edges are not stretched. On overlock seams the brushed back can make the seam bulky; trimming the seam allowance helps. Cuffs and bindings are made from rib or cascorse.

Cut fleece with the brushed side down and check the nap direction: on some brushed fabrics the nap has a lie that shifts the shade slightly with the light. Cut every piece of a garment in the same direction, or the front and back of an all-in-one can look like different colours. When spreading, do not stack too many heavy plies, so that top and bottom pieces come out identical.

A note on car seats

Thick all-in-ones are for walks and the pram. Bulky layers under car seat harness straps can stop the harness fitting properly. It is worth saying so in the product description; parents appreciate practical information.

The fabric we would choose

For baby all-in-ones and winter sets we would use our 310 g dusty pink brushed 3-thread fleece, in combed cotton with polyester. It is brushed and shaved, so the inside is velvety with fewer loose fibres, and the weight suits a warm layer worn over other clothes. The dusty shade is a regular request in winter baby ranges. For lighter versions, compare other articles in our 3-thread fleece family, and use rib for cuffs.

The dusty pink fleece is in our Afumați stock, sold by the roll with no minimum. Other colours are made to order from 150 kg per colour in any of the 220 colour-card shades. Send us a quote request or visit the showroom to see the fabric.