Piqué is not a fibre but a knit structure. On a circular knitting machine some stitches are knitted normally while others are tucked: the yarn is caught by the needle without forming a full loop. That alternation creates the small honeycomb cells that give a polo shirt its classic look. The difference between single and double piqué lies in how the tucked courses repeat in the pattern, and you will feel the consequences on the cutting table, at the sewing machine and after the tenth wash.
Single piqué: fine texture, jersey-like back
Single piqué has small, discreet cells on the face, while the back looks almost like plain single jersey. It drapes more fluidly, feels soft and breathes well, which is why it is so common for summer polos and promotional ranges. Typical weights run from 180 to 220 g/m².
The trade-offs are familiar to any cutter or machinist:
- cut edges tend to curl, especially on fabrics with elastane, which slows sewing down;
- in light colours and lower weights it can be slightly see-through;
- the shape of the collar and placket relies more on interlining, because the fabric itself is softer.
Double piqué: deeper relief, more stable fabric
In double piqué the repeat is built over more courses, so the texture is deeper and more regular. At the same weight the fabric has more body, curls less at the edges and holds its shape better after washing. Usual weights are 200 to 240 g/m².
For a polo worn every day, double piqué is usually the safer choice: the placket stays straight, the shoulders do not sag and the texture hides small stitching irregularities. The downside is a slightly stiffer drape and sometimes a marginally higher consumption in kilograms, because the same pattern simply weighs more.
Choosing by end use
There is no structure that is better across the board, only one that suits the job. As a working rule:
- Summer promotional polo, worn occasionally: single piqué, 180–200 g/m², focusing on price and thermal comfort.
- Company polo worn daily: double piqué, 200–220 g/m², for stability and a tidy look after many washes.
- Premium retail polo: double or single piqué in combed cotton, 210–240 g/m², with an enzyme and silicone finish for handle.
- Slim-fit or women's polo: single piqué with elastane, which follows the body.
- Sport polo: polyester piqué, where moisture management matters more than the structure itself.
Tests to run on a fabric sample
Before a larger order, ask for a metre of each option and run a few simple checks in the workroom:
- Edge curl: cut a 20 × 20 cm square and leave it on the table for ten minutes. If the edges roll badly, plan extra sewing time or a fixing spray.
- Stretch and recovery: pull the fabric across its width and let go. Good piqué springs back fully without bagging.
- Wash test: mark a 50 × 50 cm square, wash three times at 40 °C, dry flat and measure again. Large changes in length or width should be discussed with the supplier before cutting.
- Opacity: hold the fabric over printed text in strong light, especially in white and pastels.
- Pilling: rub the face firmly against the back for a minute and inspect the surface.
Common mistakes when choosing the structure
The most frequent mistake is choosing on weight alone. A 220 g/m² single piqué and a 210 g/m² double piqué can look very different on the body. The second is mixing structures within one order: if some colours arrive in single and others in double, the shirts will look different even with an identical pattern. The third is ignoring the face side when cutting; the back of single piqué resembles jersey and a ply can easily be laid upside down in the spread.
What we would use for an everyday polo
For a polo that is worn often, in the office or at events, we would start from the double piqué in sage green, 210 g: the double structure keeps the placket in shape, and the combed cotton and polyester blend helps colour and dimensions stay stable through repeated washing. It is 190 cm wide, which allows efficient markers even for larger sizes. You will find it on the stock list in Afumați, sold by the roll with no minimum. If you need other shades, the same piqué family can be knitted to order in any of the 220 card colours, from 150 kg per colour.
Frequently asked questions
Is double piqué always thicker than single piqué?
Not necessarily. Thickness depends on the yarn and the weight. At the same GSM, double piqué usually feels fuller and more stable because of its structure, but a 240 g/m² single piqué can be heavier than a 200 g/m² double piqué. Always compare samples in hand rather than spec sheets alone.
Can I use single and double piqué in the same collection?
Yes, if you use them for different styles, for example single piqué for a slim women's polo and double piqué for the classic men's cut. Avoid mixing structures on the same style across colours, because the look and the finished size can vary noticeably between lots.
Which structure is easier to embroider?
Double piqué usually gives a steadier base for embroidery because it distorts less in the hoop. On single piqué, especially with elastane, use a suitable backing and a moderate stitch density so the logo does not pucker the fabric around its outline.
