Most quality problems in a run of T-shirts or hoodies are not created at the sewing machine. They arrive at the door with the fabric. A hole, a dye streak or an oil mark on the roll turns into dozens of rejected panels once the lay is cut. That is why incoming inspection is the first and cheapest check in the whole production chain.
Why every delivery deserves inspection
Even a good supplier occasionally ships a problem roll: a section damaged in transit, a dirty end, a knitting fault that slipped through their own checks. What matters is when you find it. Before cutting, you have every argument for a claim: the roll is intact, the ticket is still attached, and the defect can be photographed and measured. After cutting, the conversation is much harder, because the supplier can fairly argue the fabric was accepted.
The working rule is simple: no roll goes to the cutting table without being inspected, either in full or by sampling.
What the 4-point system is
The 4-point system is the most widely used way of scoring visible fabric defects. Each defect is given points according to its length:
- defects up to 3 inches (about 7.5 cm): 1 point;
- over 3 and up to 6 inches (7.5–15 cm): 2 points;
- over 6 and up to 9 inches (15–23 cm): 3 points;
- over 9 inches (23 cm): 4 points;
- any hole or tear, whatever its size: 4 points.
No single linear metre can collect more than 4 points, even if it has several defects, so one very bad section does not distort the overall result.
How to run the inspection
Ideally the rolls are run over an inspection frame or table with good lighting, preferably daylight or tubes that imitate it. If you have no inspection machine, a long cutting table and two people are enough for small quantities.
- Record the roll details: article, colour, lot number and the weight on the ticket.
- Check the leading end against the approved sample for shade.
- Unroll at a steady pace and look at both faces if the reverse will be visible, for example on printed or brushed fabric.
- Flag each defect with a coloured sticker on the selvedge and note its position in metres.
- Measure usable width at three points: start, middle and end.
- Total the points at the end.
Calculating the score and deciding to reject
To compare rolls of different widths and lengths, the score is normalised to 100 square metres:
Points per 100 m² = total points × 100 / (metres inspected × width in metres)
Let's assume you inspect 50 m of a single jersey roll that opens to 1.80 m and find 18 points. The maths: 18 × 100 / (50 × 1.80) = 20 points per 100 m². Many brands and factories use acceptance limits somewhere around 30–40 points per 100 m² for knits, but the limit must be agreed in writing with your supplier before the order, not after.
Some defects justify rejection regardless of the total: continuous lines along the full length, shade variation between the edges and the centre, or a strong chemical or musty smell.
How much to inspect on small orders
Large factories often inspect 10% of rolls, picked at random across lots. For a workroom buying a handful of rolls, the advice is more practical: inspect the first roll of every lot and colour in full, then check at least the first and last few metres of each remaining roll. If that first roll shows problems, switch to full inspection.
A good example of a fabric where visual inspection really matters is black single jersey at 180 g. On black, oil marks are hard to spot, but white fibre contamination, holes and knitting lines jump out once the garment is sewn and printed. On dark shades, also look at the fabric under raking side light, which shows up any unevenness.
What to do with the results
Keep an inspection sheet for every roll and photograph each defect with a ruler beside it. At the cutting stage, the selvedge flags help the cutter work around damaged areas, and if defects exceed the agreed limit you have a complete file for the supplier. Over time, those sheets also show you which articles and suppliers consistently cause fewer problems.
If you buy fabric from stock, you can visit the Afumați warehouse and see the rolls before you collect them, and for made-to-order production every lot is checked against the approved sample. For our single jersey range or any other article, ask for the current stock list or a price quote.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use the 4-point system without an inspection machine?
Yes. A long table, good light and two people unrolling the fabric are enough for small volumes. A machine simply speeds things up and keeps the pace consistent. What matters is that every defect, its position and the measured width are recorded with discipline.
Are defects at the very end of the roll scored?
Usually the first and last 30–50 cm are not scored because they are handling zones. However, if you see a shade difference or a defect at the end that runs into the roll, record it and follow it along the full length.
Who sets the acceptance limit?
The limit is negotiated between buyer and supplier and written into the order or contract. Without a written limit, any claim becomes a matter of opinion. For premium products or pale colours, the agreed limit is normally stricter.
