The way panels move through the workshop, its production system, affects delivery speed, quality, work in progress and even team morale. The two systems found most often in knitwear workshops are the progressive bundle system and modular working in small cells. Neither is right in general; each suits a certain kind of order book.
The bundle system: how it works
Cut panels are grouped into bundles, for example 20 tees of the same size and ply. Each operator performs one operation or a few on every piece in the bundle, and the bundle then moves to the next station. A queue of waiting bundles forms between stations.
Advantages:
- operators specialise and reach high speeds on their operation;
- it fits piece-rate pay by operation;
- it works well for long runs of the same style;
- an absent operator causes less disruption, because the queue between stations absorbs a few hours.
Disadvantages:
- a lot of unfinished work in the workshop;
- long throughput time: a tee can sit in the workshop for days although sewing it takes a few minutes;
- defects are found late, after a whole bundle has gone through several operations;
- style changes are slow, because the line has to be emptied.
Modular working: how it works
A small team, usually 4 to 8 operators, works in a U-shaped cell with machines close together. Operators are multi-skilled and often work standing or on mobile stools, moving from one machine to the next. Pieces flow one at a time or in very small bundles. The team is jointly responsible for the finished garment.
Advantages:
- very short throughput time: the first finished garments appear after hours, not days;
- minimal work in progress;
- defects are seen immediately and corrected on the spot;
- style changes are quick, which suits short runs;
- operators help each other, so absences and bottlenecks are absorbed on the fly.
Disadvantages:
- it needs multi-skilled operators and therefore longer training;
- individual piece rates fit poorly; team or mixed pay is more common;
- individual output on a single operation may be lower than with strict specialisation;
- it needs a capable cell leader to coordinate the team.
How to choose
Some practical questions:
- How long are your runs? If you often make thousands of pieces of the same style, the bundle system remains efficient. If most orders are a few hundred pieces across different styles, modular working cuts changeover losses.
- How fast must you deliver? Clients who need quick replenishment, such as online brands and small retailers, benefit from a cell's short throughput time.
- How many multi-skilled operators do you have? Without them, modular working does not work. Build your skill matrix first.
- How do you pay? Moving to modular working means adapting the pay system, discussed with the team and with an accountant.
The hybrid solution
Many small workshops use a hybrid: small parts such as collars, plackets and pockets are prepared in bundles by specialist operators, while assembly happens in a modular cell. Difficult operations stay with the best people and assembly flows quickly. It is a good starting point if you want to try modular working without reorganising the entire workshop.
Making the transition
- Start with a single cell and a simple product.
- Choose operators who want to try it, not those who are told to.
- Measure before and after: throughput time, work in progress, DHU and efficiency.
- Allow a few weeks to settle before drawing conclusions.
Example: polo shirts in short runs
The polo is a good candidate for the hybrid system: placket and collar are prepared in bundles while assembly happens in the cell. For an order of polos for a restaurant or hotel, we would use the sage green double piqué at 210 g, in combed cotton with polyester. Double piqué is smoother and more stable than single piqué and is easy to handle when moving quickly from one machine to the next, while the polyester helps it survive the frequent washing that hospitality uniforms go through.
The article is in stock with no minimum order, which fits short runs well. For other piqué colours we produce to order from 150 kg per colour. For a per-kilo quote, use the quote request.
Frequently asked questions
Can I switch to modular working with my current operators?
Yes, but gradually. Start with operators who already handle several operations and train the others as the cell runs. A cell made up only of operators specialised in one operation each will suffer heavy bottlenecks.
What bundle size suits the classic system?
It depends on the product and operation times. Larger bundles reduce handling but increase work in progress and delay the discovery of defects. Many knitwear workshops work with bundles of 10 to 30 pieces, adjusted with experience.
Does modular working increase productivity?
Not always output per operation, but it usually cuts throughput time, work in progress and rework. For a workshop with short runs, those gains often matter more than top speed on a single operation.
