Large brands send tech packs running to dozens of pages. Small brands sometimes send a sketch, a photo from the internet and a message saying 'like this, but longer'. Between those extremes, a workshop has to know what to ask for before giving a price and a delivery date. The example below is a fleece hoodie, but the logic applies to any knitted garment.
Why the tech pack matters to the factory
The tech pack defines what a compliant garment is. If a detail is not written down, each side interprets it in its own favour. The client will say it was obvious that the pocket had to be lined; the workshop will say it was never mentioned. A tech pack checked at the start protects your price, your lead time and the relationship.
Check it before you quote, not after the first sample. Questions asked early look professional; questions asked after the sample is sewn look like improvisation.
Main fabric and secondary fabrics
For every fabric the tech pack should state:
- the family and construction (for example brushed 3-thread fleece, french terry, single jersey);
- weight in g/m² and the accepted tolerance;
- composition;
- colour, with a reference code or an approved physical sample;
- finish (enzyme, silicone, brushed, anti-pilling);
- maximum accepted shrinkage after washing.
For a hoodie, check the rib for cuffs and waistband separately: composition, weight, and a shade that matches the body. If the tech pack only says 'grey fleece', ask for detail: a grey melange is very different from a piece-dyed grey, and the weight completely changes how the garment hangs. A sporty winter hoodie, for instance, calls for something like our grey melange 320 g diagonal 3-thread fleece, whereas a spring hoodie may be better in a lighter french terry.
The measurement chart and tolerances
A useful measurement chart has:
- clearly defined points of measure (for example 'chest width 2 cm below armhole');
- measurements for every size, not just the base size;
- a tolerance for every point (plus/minus);
- the measuring method: garment laid flat, relaxed, not stretched.
If tolerances are missing, propose them yourself in writing before production. For knits, 1 cm on large widths is common, but the client must approve the figures.
Construction: seams, topstitching, details
Check whether the tech pack specifies:
- the stitch type for each area (overlock, coverstitch, flatlock, twin-needle topstitch);
- topstitch widths and stitch density;
- how the hood is made (lined or single, with or without drawcord, metal eyelets or embroidered holes);
- the kangaroo pocket construction and whether it is lined;
- label positions and how they are attached.
Where details are missing, write a numbered list of questions and send it to the client. The answers go into the final version of the tech pack.
Decoration, trims and packing
For printing and embroidery, ask for final artwork files, exact dimensions, the position measured from a fixed point (shoulder seam, centre front) and colours. For trims: drawcord type, cord ends, care and size labels, brand label, swing tags.
Packing is the most commonly forgotten section: folding method, individual polybag, barcode sticker, pieces per carton, carton marking. All of it costs time and money.
Warning signs in a tech pack
A few situations where you should stop and talk before quoting anything:
- the measurements do not match the sketch (an 'oversized' hoodie with the chest width of a fitted style, for example);
- the requested fabric is too light for the construction, such as a lined hood and a large pocket on a thin cloth;
- the chart contains measurements copied from another product, with points of measure that do not exist on this style;
- several versions of the tech pack are circulating, with no revision number and no date.
In every one of these cases, ask for a single, numbered final version and work only from that. Any chat or phone message that changes the product must be confirmed afterwards in the tech pack itself.
How to reply to the client
After your review, send a short summary:
- What you understood and confirm.
- What is missing and what you propose instead.
- Any risks you see (for example, fabric too light for a large print).
- Price and lead time, conditional on the answers.
That document becomes the basis for sampling and the contract. Every later change is logged as a dated revision.
If the client has not chosen a fabric yet, you can help by starting from our 3-thread fleece range and the fabric in stock in Afumați. For special shades, ask for a lab dip; made-to-order production starts from 150 kg per colour per article.
Frequently asked questions
What if the client has no tech pack at all?
Build a minimum version together: front and back sketch, fabric, a measurement chart for the base size, seams, trims and packing. Many clients pay for this as part of development. Without a written document, do not give a firm delivery date or start production.
Who is responsible if the tech pack contains errors?
The client is responsible for the content of the tech pack they approve, and the workshop for producing to it. So when you spot an obvious mistake, flag it in writing before production. If you notice it and say nothing, the conversation at delivery becomes much harder.
How detailed does a tech pack for a simple tee need to be?
Even a basic tee needs fabric with weight and colour, a measurement chart with tolerances, neckline and hem construction, labels and packing. Two well-made pages are enough; what matters is that nothing is left open to interpretation.
