The hoodie is usually the highest-value product in a debut collection and also its biggest fabric consumer. For a run of 100 pieces you are talking about tens of kilos of 3-thread fleece or french terry, plus 2×2 rib for cuffs and waistband and perhaps a single jersey for a lined hood. A careful calculation helps you order the right amount, negotiate with the workshop and know exactly what the fabric costs you per piece.
What a hoodie is made of
Before the numbers, it helps to understand where the fabric goes. A classic pullover hoodie has:
- front and back (the largest pieces);
- two sleeves;
- the hood, in two or three panels, often double-layered;
- the kangaroo pocket;
- cuffs and waistband, usually in 2×2 rib (cascorse).
A double hood and a kangaroo pocket together can add 15–20% to consumption compared with a plain crewneck sweatshirt. If the hood is lined with jersey, the main fabric figure drops a little, but you now have a second article to order.
Indicative consumption per size
For a regular-fit hoodie in a 320 g/m² 3-thread fleece, 180 cm wide, with a double hood in the same fabric, indicative figures including cutting waste might be:
- S: about 0.58 kg;
- M: about 0.64 kg;
- L: about 0.70 kg;
- XL: about 0.76 kg;
- XXL: about 0.82 kg.
An oversized cut with a dropped shoulder and a wider body can add another 20–30%. The real figures come from a marker laid on the exact width of your fabric.
The calculation for 100 pieces
Let's assume a typical debut size spread:
- S: 15 × 0.58 = 8.7 kg
- M: 30 × 0.64 = 19.2 kg
- L: 30 × 0.70 = 21.0 kg
- XL: 20 × 0.76 = 15.2 kg
- XXL: 5 × 0.82 = 4.1 kg
Total: 68.2 kg of fleece. With a 5% allowance for faults, roll ends and samples, you arrive at roughly 72 kg, which is three to four rolls depending on their weight.
For cuffs and waistband, 2×2 rib uses roughly 40–60 grams per hoodie, so around 5 kg for the whole run plus allowance. Drawcords, cord ends and eyelets are ordered separately, by the piece.
These figures also give you the fabric cost per hoodie. The average across the run is 68.2 ÷ 100 ≈ 0.68 kg of fleece, plus about 0.05 kg of rib. If, for example, the main fabric costs X per kilo and the rib Y per kilo, the fabric cost per hoodie is roughly 0.68 × X + 0.05 × Y, plus the 5% allowance. Put that figure straight into the product's cost sheet.
How 3-thread fleece behaves in cutting
3-thread fleece has a smooth face and a looped back, which can be left as it is or brushed for a fluffy hand. A few things to know:
- brushed fleece sheds lint during cutting, so the workshop needs to clean tables between lays;
- heavy weights are harder to spread in many plies, so check the maximum lay height with your workshop;
- wash shrinkage must be tested before cutting, because a hoodie that loses 5 cm in length is a guaranteed return;
- the direction of the loops affects how the face looks, so all pieces should be cut in the same direction.
The fabric we would use
For a core hoodie that is durable and sells all year, an unbrushed 3-thread fleece with a diagonal back is a practical choice: it survives washing well, doesn't shed inside and has a structured drape. Our grey melange diagonal 3-thread fleece in 320 g, in combed cotton and polyester, fits this kind of hoodie very well: the weight feels substantial, and grey melange is the safest launch colour for a new brand. Brushed versions are in the 3-thread fleece family, and rib for cuffs in the rib and cascorse family.
This fabric is in our Afumați stock and sold by the roll with no minimum, so for 100 hoodies you can buy exactly the rolls you need. Ask for the stock list with the weights of the rolls currently available, and calculate your allowance on real figures.
Frequently asked questions
Is a crewneck sweatshirt cheaper to make than a hoodie?
Yes. Without a hood and kangaroo pocket, fabric consumption usually drops by 15–20%, and sewing time is lower too. A crewneck is a good mid-price option in the range and can be cut from the same fabric as the hoodie, which keeps fabric ordering simple.
Can I use french terry instead of 3-thread fleece for hoodies?
Yes, 250–280 g/m² french terry is widely used for spring and autumn hoodies. It is lighter and more flexible than 3-thread fleece, but less warm. For winter and for heavy-looking streetwear, 3-thread fleece of 300 g/m² or more remains the usual choice.
How do I match the rib colour to the main fabric?
Ideally the rib is dyed to the same card colour as the main fabric and the two are checked together in daylight. For melange fabrics, ask for rib knitted from the same type of melange yarn. Always make a sample with cuffs attached before ordering the production quantity.
