Question 1

What is the difference between ring-spun and open-end yarn?

Accepted Answer

Ring-spun yarn is twisted continuously on a ring frame, which gives a finer, stronger and softer-feeling yarn. Open-end (rotor) yarn is produced faster and cheaper; it is bulkier, rougher and weaker, but its thickness is fairly even.

Rule of thumb: for light T-shirts with a pleasant hand feel choose ring-spun; for sweatshirts, uniforms and high-volume products where price matters, open-end is a sound choice. Ask the supplier to state the spinning system in the technical sheet, because appearance and pilling resistance differ.

Question 2

What do carded cotton and combed cotton mean?

Accepted Answer

Carded cotton goes only through the carding machine, which aligns the fibres and removes large impurities; the yarn stays hairier, with short fibres and more irregularity. Combed cotton goes through an extra combing step that removes short fibres and neps, giving a finer, smoother and stronger yarn.

For quality single jersey, combed gives a cleaner surface and less pilling, but costs more. Carded suits volume products, sweatshirts and a more rustic look. Ask for the exact yarn specification, not only the words 100% cotton.

Question 3

What is compact yarn and when is it worth it?

Accepted Answer

Compact yarn is a ring-spun yarn in which the fibres are condensed before twisting, so it has less hairiness and is stronger and smoother. The fabric shows a cleaner surface, clearer colours and less pilling.

It is worth it for premium T-shirts, polo shirts and white or light articles, where flaws show easily, and when you plan fine printing. It costs more than conventional ring yarn, so for volume products it is not always necessary. Ask whether the yarn is compact or conventional ring and compare with a sample.

Question 4

What does Ne mean for yarns and how do you read it?

Accepted Answer

Ne (English cotton count) is the numbering system for cotton yarns: it tells how many 840-yard hanks weigh one pound. The higher the number, the finer the yarn, so Ne 20/1 is thicker than Ne 40/1.

The figure after the slash shows how many strands are twisted together: /1 is a single yarn, /2 means two-ply. Ne 30/1 is a single yarn often used for T-shirts. To compare with other systems, ask for the Nm or tex equivalent as well.

Question 5

Which yarn count (20/1, 30/1, 40/1) is used for T-shirts?

Accepted Answer

For everyday single jersey T-shirts, Ne 24/1 to 30/1 is most common at medium weights, and Ne 30/1 to 40/1 for fine, summer or premium tees. Ne 20/1 gives a thicker, more opaque fabric suited to heavyweight and oversized T-shirts.

Finer yarn means, at the same weight, a denser structure and a softer hand, but also a higher cost. The choice depends on the target weight and the machine gauge. Always ask for the yarn count together with the weight, because together they define the character of the fabric.

Question 6

What does 30/2 or 30/30 mean in a knitted fabric specification?

Accepted Answer

The notation 30/2 means two Ne 30 strands twisted together, so the resulting yarn is roughly equivalent to Ne 15, thicker and stronger. The notation 30/30 appears mainly for woven fabrics (warp/weft) and is not standard for knits; if you see it in an offer, ask for clarification.

In knitting a single yarn count per system is usually stated, for example 30/1, while two-ply yarns appear in special articles. Do not assume: ask the supplier to write the count and the number of plies explicitly.

Question 7

How do I read a specification like 30/1 + 40D elastane?

Accepted Answer

In 30/1 + 40D, the first part is the cotton yarn (Ne 30, single), and 40D is the elastane expressed in denier, meaning the fineness of the elastic thread. The higher the denier, the thicker the elastic thread.

The final elastane percentage in the composition depends on the fabric weight and on how the elastane is fed into the knit, so it cannot be deduced from the denier alone. A 30/1 + 40D fabric typically ends up with a few percent elastane. Ask for the confirmed final composition, not only the yarn specification.

Question 8

What is Pima or Supima cotton?

Accepted Answer

Pima is an extra-long staple cotton grown mainly in the USA, Peru and Australia. Supima is a registered trademark for American Pima cotton, licensed only for products that meet the brand's conditions. The long fibre gives a finer, stronger yarn and a softer fabric with less pilling.

Not every Pima label is genuine; for Supima ask for proof of licence or a traceability certificate. Pima is used in premium T-shirts and polo shirts, at a higher price than ordinary cotton. Also check that the yarn is combed, so the difference actually shows.

Question 9

What is Egyptian cotton and is it always better?

Accepted Answer

Egyptian cotton (Giza) is a long or extra-long staple cotton grown in Egypt, valued for fineness and lustre. Used in a fine, combed yarn, it gives a soft, strong fabric.

The name does not guarantee quality, though: many products are wrongly labelled as Egyptian. A cheap, badly spun yarn will not be better even if the cotton is long. Ask for proof of origin and the yarn specification (combed, count). For ordinary garments a good combed cotton without origin claims is often sufficient and more economical.

Question 10

What is organic cotton and how does it differ from conventional cotton?

Accepted Answer

Organic cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides and fertilisers and without genetically modified seed, under recognised standards. The fibre itself looks and behaves like conventional cotton; the difference lies in farming, not in the technical quality of the yarn.

To use the organic claim you need certification along the whole chain (for example GOTS or OCS) and a transaction certificate for each lot. Without these documents the claim cannot be verified. Ask the supplier for the certificate and its number, and check that the delivered lot is covered.

Question 11

What is recycled cotton and how much recycled content does it usually have?

Accepted Answer

Recycled cotton comes from textile waste, usually cutting and knitting offcuts, shredded back into fibres and respun. The recovered fibres are shorter, so they are normally blended with virgin cotton or polyester for strength, and the yarn is mostly made by open-end spinning.

The percentage varies widely, from a few tens of percent upwards, depending on the request; there is no fixed value. Hand feel and look are often more rustic, with a melange tone. Always ask for the exact percentage and proof (for example GRS or RCS) before using the claim on a label.

Question 12

What does Better Cotton (BCI) mean on a T-shirt?

Accepted Answer

Better Cotton is a programme for more responsible farming; it is not an organic certification and does not guarantee a specific type of fibre. The cotton is usually not physically traced to the finished product: a mass balance system applies, meaning farmers sell an equivalent volume as Better Cotton.

So you cannot claim that the T-shirt physically contains Better Cotton, only that the product supports the programme. If your customer asks for this claim, request proof of participation from the supplier and the permitted communication rules. Do not use the logo without approval.

Question 13

What is the difference between virgin polyester and recycled polyester (rPET)?

Accepted Answer

Recycled polyester (rPET) is usually made from collected PET bottles, melted and turned into fibres or yarns. Technically, a good-quality recycled yarn behaves almost like virgin: strength, fast drying, low creasing.

Possible differences are a slight shade or evenness variation between lots, especially in light colours. On the label it is normally still polyester, with the word recycled added only if you can prove it, for example through GRS. Ask for the certificate and the recycled percentage before communicating it to customers.

Question 14

What is CVC and how does it differ from PC?

Accepted Answer

CVC (Chief Value Cotton) is a blend where cotton predominates, typically 60 to 80 percent cotton and the rest polyester. PC is the reverse, with polyester as the larger share, for example 65 percent polyester and 35 percent cotton.

CVC keeps the hand feel and breathability of cotton, with a little more strength and lower creasing. PC is more stable, dries quickly and creases little, but absorbs less moisture and can pill. For uniforms and heavy use both are common; always check the exact percentages in the technical sheet.

Question 15

What is a triblend and which fibres is it made from?

Accepted Answer

A triblend is a fabric made from three fibres, most often cotton, polyester and viscose (or modal), in a blended yarn. It looks heathered, has a very soft hand, fluid drape and a slightly vintage look.

Proportions vary, for example about half polyester, a quarter cotton and a quarter viscose, but there is no single recipe. Drawbacks are a higher cost, more sensitivity to pilling, and the fact that the fibres take dye differently, so shade can vary between lots. Ask for the exact composition and check the shade on a sample.

Question 16

How much elastane (Lycra) goes into a knit and what does each percentage change?

Accepted Answer

The most common levels are 2 to 5 percent elastane for comfort single jersey and rib, around 5 to 10 percent for very stretchy articles such as leggings or sportswear, and under 2 percent for simple shape recovery. The higher the percentage, the more the fabric stretches and recovers.

Lycra is a brand of one producer; the generic fibre is called elastane or spandex. Above a certain level costs rise and so does heat sensitivity. Choose the percentage by article and ask for it to be confirmed in the final composition.

Question 17

Does elastane lose its elasticity over time?

Accepted Answer

Yes, elastane can age: after many years, or after repeated exposure to high heat, chlorine and some light, the elastic thread weakens, the fabric becomes saggy and no longer recovers. This is a property of the fibre, not a sewing defect.

Elastane quality matters: better yarns and an adequate percentage last longer. For garments with elastane, avoid very high temperatures in setting or pressing, and ask the supplier to specify the yarn type. A percentage that is too low does not guarantee good recovery.

Question 18

What is modal and how does it differ from cotton?

Accepted Answer

Modal is a regenerated cellulose fibre made from beech wood pulp, with a very soft hand, fine lustre and fluid drape. It absorbs moisture well, is stronger when wet than classic viscose and shrinks less.

Compared with cotton, modal is smoother and softer, with often more vivid colours, but it is pricier and can stretch out if not blended. It is used pure or blended with cotton or elastane for underwear, premium T-shirts and homewear. Ask for the exact composition and the fibre producer's name where that matters.

Question 19

What is viscose and what problems can it cause in knitwear?

Accepted Answer

Viscose is a regenerated cellulose fibre made from wood pulp, with a soft hand, fluid drape and good moisture absorption. It is inexpensive and dyes into vivid shades.

Typical problems: it is weaker when wet, can shrink more than cotton and may bag at elbows and knees if it has no elastane. Yarn length and quality strongly influence the result. For stability, viscose is often blended with polyester, cotton or elastane; ask for a shrinkage test on the real lot.

Question 20

What is lyocell (Tencel) and is it different from viscose?

Accepted Answer

Lyocell is also a regenerated cellulose fibre, but made in a closed-loop solvent process. Tencel is the brand name for lyocell made by a particular company. The fibre is very soft, strong and absorbs moisture well.

Compared with viscose, lyocell performs better when wet and tends to bag less. It is used pure or blended with cotton or elastane. It can fibrillate, forming fine fuzz on the surface, if processed incorrectly. If a customer asks for Tencel, ask for proof that the fibre is genuinely the brand.

Fibres & yarns

What is the difference between ring-spun and open-end yarn?

What do carded cotton and combed cotton mean?

What is compact yarn and when is it worth it?

What does Ne mean for yarns and how do you read it?

Which yarn count (20/1, 30/1, 40/1) is used for T-shirts?

What does 30/2 or 30/30 mean in a knitted fabric specification?

How do I read a specification like 30/1 + 40D elastane?

What is Pima or Supima cotton?

What is Egyptian cotton and is it always better?

What is organic cotton and how does it differ from conventional cotton?

What is recycled cotton and how much recycled content does it usually have?

What does Better Cotton (BCI) mean on a T-shirt?

What is the difference between virgin polyester and recycled polyester (rPET)?

What is CVC and how does it differ from PC?

What is a triblend and which fibres is it made from?

How much elastane (Lycra) goes into a knit and what does each percentage change?

Does elastane lose its elasticity over time?

What is modal and how does it differ from cotton?

What is viscose and what problems can it cause in knitwear?

What is lyocell (Tencel) and is it different from viscose?

Is it true that bamboo T-shirts are antibacterial and natural?

What is nylon (polyamide) used for in knitwear?

Can single jersey be made with linen and how does it behave?

Can single jersey be made with wool and how does it behave?

What does melange (heather) mean in knitwear and how is it made?

What is siro yarn and what is its advantage?

What is slub yarn and what does the fabric look like?

How does yarn twist influence spirality in knitted fabric?

Why does combed yarn pill less?

How do I read a fabric composition label correctly?

What is cotton staple length and why does it matter?

What are the differences between cotton and polyester fibres?

Why does polyester pill, and why don't the pills fall off?

How do I convert between Ne, Nm, tex and denier?

What is textured polyester (DTY) compared with spun polyester yarn?

What are neps and why do they appear in knitted fabric?

What does yarn hairiness mean and how does it affect the fabric?

What is the barré effect and can it come from the yarn?

Why does viscose shrink more than cotton?

What does a cotton–modal blend add over pure cotton?

Can knitwear be made with hemp and what are its characteristics?

What is acrylic in knitwear and how does it compare with wool?

What is polyester microfibre and how does it feel in knitwear?

How can I find the composition of a knit with a burn test?

What tolerance is accepted for the composition on a label?

What is the difference between an intimate blend yarn and two different yarns in one fabric?

What does 100% premium cotton mean?

Which yarns are used for the brushed inside of a hoodie?

How much moisture does each fibre absorb?

Why do synthetic knits produce static electricity?

What is bicomponent polyester (elastomultiester, T400) compared with elastane?

Which yarn count is used for sweatshirts and heavy knits?

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