Question 1

What is single jersey (glat, suprem) knit fabric?

Accepted Answer

Single jersey is the simplest circular knit: one set of needles forms a fabric with V-shaped knit stitches on the face and rounded purl-looking loops on the back, which looks flatter and duller. It is light and soft, stretches more across the width than along the length, and curls at cut edges.

It is the base structure for t-shirts, tops and summer garments. It cuts and sews quickly, and the smooth face prints well. It does not have the dimensional stability of interlock.

Question 2

What is the difference between single jersey and interlock?

Accepted Answer

Single jersey is knitted on one needle bed, while interlock is knitted on two, which gives a thicker, firmer fabric that looks the same on both sides. Jersey has V-stitches on the face and a different back, stretches more and curls at the edges. Interlock lies flat when cut, looks smooth on both sides and distorts less.

With the same yarn, interlock is usually heavier and more opaque. Choose jersey for lightness and stretch, interlock for stability and a clean look on both sides.

Question 3

What is 1x1 rib knit fabric?

Accepted Answer

1x1 rib is a knit with vertical ridges where one knit stitch alternates with one purl stitch across each row. It is made on machines with two needle beds, cylinder and dial. The result has fine ribs visible on both sides, very high stretch across the width and good recovery.

Because the edges do not curl, 1x1 rib is easy to handle. It is used for fitted tops, collars and cuffs. The actual stretch depends on the yarn and on whether elastane is included.

Question 4

1x1 rib or 2x2 rib: what is the difference?

Accepted Answer

1x1 rib alternates one knit stitch with one purl stitch, so the ribs are very fine and close. 2x2 rib alternates two knit stitches with two purl stitches, so the ribs are wider, more pronounced and the fabric looks more textured. With the same yarn, 2x2 usually stretches a little more and feels softer, while 1x1 looks finer and more uniform.

Both are used for cuffs and hems. The choice is mostly about appearance, so ask for a swatch of each to see how the rib really looks.

Question 5

What does cascorse mean in knitwear?

Accepted Answer

Cascorse is the term used in Romanian workshops for a fine ribbed knit, usually a light 1x1 rib, often with a little elastane, used for fitted tops, bodysuits and close-fitting pieces. The word comes from Turkish (kaşkorse) and has no standard definition, so suppliers may use it differently.

When ordering, do not rely on the name alone. Ask for a swatch and check the weight, composition, width and how far it stretches and recovers. That avoids confusion between cuff rib and cascorse.

Question 6

Rib or cascorse: how do you tell them apart?

Accepted Answer

Both are ribbed knits, but in practice rib (ribana) is the thicker, firmer fabric used for collars, cuffs and hems, while cascorse is thinner, stretchier and used as the main fabric for close-fitting pieces. Rib must hold its shape and recover after stretching, cascorse must be fine and soft on the skin.

The boundary is not official, and two suppliers may name the same fabric differently. Always check the structure (1x1 or 2x2), weight, width and composition instead of relying on the name.

Question 7

Why is rib used for collars and cuffs?

Accepted Answer

Rib is used for collars, cuffs and hems because it stretches a lot across the width, recovers its shape and does not curl at the edges. A jersey collar would wave and roll, while a rib collar stays flat and close to the neck. The vertical ribs close up after stretching and hold the garment to the body.

For the same reason the rib piece is cut shorter than the opening it joins, so it is stretched when sewn. For a clean result choose a rib of similar weight to the main fabric and, for garments that are washed often, one with a little elastane for recovery.

Question 8

Rib or interlock: are they the same?

Accepted Answer

No, they are different structures, although both are made on machines with two needle beds. Rib has visible vertical ridges and high stretch across the width. Interlock is made of two 1x1 ribs knitted into each other, so it has a smooth face on both sides, no visible ribs and less stretch, with a more stable and fuller feel.

They are confused because interlock looks like a stretched rib. Pull a rib and you see the ridges, pull interlock and you do not. Rib suits pieces that must hug the body, interlock suits pieces that must keep their shape.

Question 9

What is interlock and how is it knitted?

Accepted Answer

Interlock is a double knit made of two 1x1 ribs knitted into each other so that the stitches on both faces sit exactly behind one another. That is why the fabric looks the same on both sides, smooth and fine. It is made on circular machines with a cylinder and a dial, using long and short needles working alternately.

Being thicker and more compact than jersey, interlock does not curl, cuts cleanly and keeps its shape. It is used for quality t-shirts, children's wear, uniforms and pieces where you want no see-through and little distortion.

Question 10

Is interlock the same as double knit?

Accepted Answer

Not exactly. Interlock is one type of double knit, but "double knit" is a broader term for any knit made on two needle beds with a smooth look on both faces: interlock, ponte, milano, scuba and others. What separates them is the stitch pattern, the yarn and the density.

In international offers "double knit" often just means a fabric that is thicker and more stable than jersey. To avoid surprises, always ask for the exact structure, the weight and a swatch rather than only the trade name.

Question 11

What is pique (lacoste) as a knitted fabric?

Accepted Answer

Pique, called lacoste in Romania, is a knit with a raised texture of small honeycomb or diamond shapes, created by tuck stitches that hold the yarn without releasing the previous loop. The face shows a visible pattern while the back is smoother. It is thicker and more airy than jersey, with fewer contact points against the skin.

It is mostly used for polo shirts but also for other casual garments. There are several variants, for example single pique and double pique, with different looks and weights.

Question 12

Single pique or double pique: what changes?

Accepted Answer

Single pique is made on one needle bed, so it is lighter, softer and stretchier, with a finer texture. Double pique is made on two beds, so it is thicker and more stable, with a more pronounced texture and a clean back. Double pique tends to keep its shape better after wear and washing.

For summer polos, single pique is more comfortable and easier to cut. For uniforms and pieces that must look good for a long time, double pique is more suitable. Ask for a swatch, as names vary between mills.

Question 13

What is American pique?

Accepted Answer

American pique is a trade name for a pique with a more pronounced texture, a larger and more visible honeycomb or nest effect than classic pique. The term is not standardised: one supplier may use it for one structure, another for a different one. That is why it is not wise to order by name.

What counts is the actual pattern, the weight and the width. Ask for a swatch or a close-up photo and compare it with your requirement. If you want a traditional sporty polo look, also check how large the texture cell is.

Question 14

What is the difference between pique and waffle knit?

Accepted Answer

Both have a raised texture, but the structure differs. Pique has a small honeycomb or diamond pattern on the face only, with a smoother back. Waffle forms a grid of deep squares or pockets, visible on both sides or on one, with a much more three-dimensional look, more thickness and a greater ability to trap air.

Pique is the classic choice for polos, waffle for loungewear, pyjamas and thermal pieces. In both, tuck stitches pull the fabric in, so always check the real finished width.

Question 15

Pique or single jersey for polos: what differs in the structure?

Accepted Answer

Single jersey consists only of knit stitches, so it has a smooth face and a different back. Pique adds tuck stitches, which create a raised texture and make the fabric thicker and more airy. That is why pique holds its shape better at the neck and shoulders, does not cling to the body and hides small flaws better.

Jersey is lighter, stretchier and easier to cut, but more prone to curling and distortion. For a classic-looking polo choose pique, for a soft-draping fashion polo choose jersey.

Question 16

What is a double-face fabric?

Accepted Answer

Double-face is a double knit with two different faces, for example two colours, two textures or two yarns, visible on both sides. It is made on machines with two needle beds, controlling which yarn shows on each face. It can be reversible, so the garment can be worn either way.

Because it is made of two layers linked together, the fabric is thicker, more stable and curls very little. It is used for light jackets, sweatshirts and pieces worn on both sides. It costs more than a jersey because it uses more yarn.

Question 17

What is french terry and what does it look like?

Accepted Answer

French terry is a knit with a smooth face, like jersey, and a back with small, unbrushed loops formed by an additional yarn. It is knitted on a single needle bed with a ground yarn and a loop yarn. The looped back is soft, breathable and absorbs moisture.

It is the classic fabric for lightweight hoodies, joggers and mid-season clothing. Because it is not brushed, it is lighter and less warm than fleece. You can recognise it easily by the visible loops on the back.

Question 18

French terry or fleece: how do you tell them apart?

Accepted Answer

The face looks the same, smooth, but the back differs. French terry has small visible loops on the back because it has not been brushed. In fleece the loop has been brushed, so the back is fluffy with no visible loops, thicker and warmer. The same looped knit can become fleece after brushing.

For a summer or spring hoodie, french terry is enough and more breathable. For winter or warm layers, fleece is more suitable. Ask to see the back of the fabric before ordering rather than relying on the name.

Question 19

What is 3-thread fleece?

Accepted Answer

3-thread fleece is a knit with a smooth face, a binding yarn in the middle and a thicker yarn on the back that is brushed to create the fluffy pile. The three yarns give the fabric thickness, warmth and stability, more than a 2-thread fabric. In Romania it is called 3 fire or flausat, depending on how it was brushed.

It is the classic choice for winter hoodies, thick tracksuits and pieces that must keep warm. It is heavier than french terry, so it is less suitable for summer. When ordering stock or a lot, ask to see both the face and the back.

Question 20

2-thread or 3-thread: what does it mean and when do you choose each?

Accepted Answer

The number of threads refers to the layers in the knit structure. The 2-thread fabric has a face yarn and a loop yarn on the back, so it is lighter, more breathable and thinner. The 3-thread fabric adds a binding yarn, so it is thicker, more stable and warmer, especially after brushing.

For autumn, spring and lighter garments 2-thread is usually chosen. For winter and pieces that must keep warm, 3-thread. Ask for both swatches and compare the back, the thickness and how well each keeps its shape.

Knit structures

What is single jersey (glat, suprem) knit fabric?

What is the difference between single jersey and interlock?

What is 1x1 rib knit fabric?

1x1 rib or 2x2 rib: what is the difference?

What does cascorse mean in knitwear?

Rib or cascorse: how do you tell them apart?

Why is rib used for collars and cuffs?

Rib or interlock: are they the same?

What is interlock and how is it knitted?

Is interlock the same as double knit?

What is pique (lacoste) as a knitted fabric?

Single pique or double pique: what changes?

What is American pique?

What is the difference between pique and waffle knit?

Pique or single jersey for polos: what differs in the structure?

What is a double-face fabric?

What is french terry and what does it look like?

French terry or fleece: how do you tell them apart?

What is 3-thread fleece?

2-thread or 3-thread: what does it mean and when do you choose each?

What is izmana?

What is knitted terry?

Knitted terry or woven terry: what is the difference?

What is knitted velour?

What is a jacquard knit?

What is a waffle knit?

What is pointelle knit?

What is knitted mesh (eyelet)?

What is scuba as a knitted fabric?

What is an ottoman knit?

Ponte or milano: what is the difference?

What is circular machine diameter and how does it affect tubular width?

What is the difference between a sweater knit and a cut-and-sew jersey garment?

What is the difference between weft knit and warp knit?

What is the difference between single jersey and double jersey machines?

What does gauge mean in knitting?

What is loop length and why does it matter?

What are the face and the back of a knitted fabric?

What is plated (vanisé) knit?

What is slub jersey (flamé)?

What are the differences between knit and woven fabric?

What are courses and wales in knitting?

Why does jersey curl at the edges?

Why does knit unravel and what is a ladder or run?

Circular knitting or flat knitting: what is the difference?

What does "tricot" mean in the trade?

What are knit, tuck and miss stitches?

How are stripes made in knitting and what are feeders?

How do I recognise a knitted fabric by looking at its back?

What is spacer (3D) fabric?

Why does knit stretch more across than along its length?

What is crepe knit?

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