Question 1

Why does finished knit fabric differ from greige fabric?

Accepted Answer

Greige fabric, straight off the circular machine, has a different GSM, width and hand from finished fabric because it goes through wet and heat processes that relax it. Yarns are under tension during knitting; in washing, dyeing and drying they move back toward equilibrium, so the fabric shortens in length and changes in width. GSM usually rises after relaxation. Finishes such as softener, compacting and brushing then change the hand and dimensional stability. That is why GSM, width and shrinkage should always be specified on the finished fabric, never on the greige.

Question 2

What are the finishing steps for a knitted fabric, in order?

Accepted Answer

The exact sequence depends on the article, but a typical tubular knit goes through preparation (cleaning, sometimes singeing or bio-polishing), dyeing, and then finishing: squeezing or slitting, softener or functional finish application, drying on a stenter or dryer, then calendering or compacting. Knits with elastane also need heat-setting. Every step changes GSM, width or hand, so the order matters. If you have a precise requirement, ask the supplier for the finishing route and not only the fabric name.

Question 3

What is singeing on knitted fabric and when is it used?

Accepted Answer

Singeing passes the fabric quickly over flames or hot plates to burn off loose fibre ends and fuzz from the surface before dyeing. The result is a cleaner face, a crisper look and a lower tendency to pill. It is used mainly on combed cotton and premium articles where a smooth surface and a bright shade are wanted. It does not remove pilling from a finished garment and it does not replace bio-polishing; the two complement each other. Ask for it explicitly if you want a very clean single jersey.

Question 4

What is bio-polishing (enzyme finishing) on knitted fabric?

Accepted Answer

Bio-polishing is an enzyme treatment (cellulase) that breaks down the microfibres sticking out of the cotton surface without seriously attacking the fibre core. The result is a smoother face, a softer hand and a much lower tendency to pill. It only works on cellulosic fibres such as cotton, viscose and modal. Weight loss is small, but strength and GSM can drop slightly. Time, temperature and pH must be controlled, otherwise shade differences appear between lots. It is worth it for premium tees and sweatshirts with a smooth face.

Question 5

What is the difference between macro and micro silicone softeners?

Accepted Answer

A macro silicone softener has large particles, forms a film on the fibre surface and gives a full, slippery, almost oily hand, but it can leave stains and reduce absorbency. A micro (or nano) silicone penetrates better between the fibres, gives a soft, dry and even hand, and affects hydrophilicity less. For cotton tees that need good absorbency, micro silicone is usually chosen; macro is used where bulk and strong softness are wanted, such as sweatshirts. Ask the supplier which type is used, not just for a soft hand.

Question 6

Cationic or silicone softener: what should I know before choosing?

Accepted Answer

A cationic softener gives a soft, inexpensive hand, but it can slightly yellow light shades, reduces absorbency and washes out relatively quickly. A silicone softener costs more and gives a more durable, silkier hand, but excess can cause silicone spots on the fabric, cutting and sewing problems, or a slippery surface that is hard to spread on the cutting table. In practice many finishers blend the two. For white and pastel colours, check the shade after finishing, not only before, and ask for a swatch from the real lot.

Question 7

What is brushing (raising) on knitted fabric and what does it change?

Accepted Answer

Brushing, or raising, is a mechanical treatment with wire or bristle rollers that lifts fibres from one or both faces of the fabric and creates a fluffy, warm layer. It is used on sweatshirts, tracksuits and 3-thread fleece, where the fibre layer traps air and increases insulation. It changes hand, thickness and appearance, but it can slightly lower strength and raise the pilling tendency if the fibre is short. Good yarn and the right degree of brushing matter more than aggressive raising. Specify exactly what you want: light, medium or strong.

Question 8

Brushed on one side or both: what is the difference?

Accepted Answer

Brushing on one side only, usually the inside, is the standard for hoodies and fleece: the outside stays smooth and printable while the inside becomes warm. Brushing on both sides gives a very fluffy, blanket-like fabric that is less suitable for printing and has a more casual look. With both sides raised, pilling appears more easily and cutting needs more care because of lint. Choose by product: hoodies and tracksuits are almost always brushed inside with a smooth outside.

Question 9

What is a peach finish (peaching) on knitted fabric?

Accepted Answer

A peach finish is a very fine sanding with abrasive rollers that shortens the surface fibres and gives a velvety, peach-skin hand. It is used on microfibre polyester, cotton-polyester blends and knits for activewear or soft-touch tees. The result is a matte fabric, warm to the touch, with reduced shine. It lowers tear strength slightly and can alter the colour, usually deepening it. Ask for a finished swatch, not just a photo.

Question 10

What is carbon brushing and how does it differ from peaching?

Accepted Answer

Carbon brushing uses brushes with fine carbon filaments or abrasive fibres, instead of sandpaper rollers, to lift and cut the surface fibres very short. It gives a finer, more uniform and drier hand than classic peaching and is used on polyester for sportswear, premium jersey and suede-like articles. It is a more delicate and more expensive process. In practice, carbon brushing keeps the drape better and gives a cleaner look without abrasion marks. Ask for a swatch before ordering.

Question 11

What does shearing mean for knitted fabric?

Accepted Answer

Shearing cuts the surface fibres to a uniform height with rotating blades, usually after brushing. It is applied to brushed or looped knits such as terry or polar fleece to obtain an even layer with no stray fibres and a cleaner look. It can also reduce pilling, because it removes the fibre tips that would tangle. Excessive shearing thins the fabric and lowers GSM. Specify whether you want a plush surface, a short-sheared one or just brushed, because the final look differs a lot.

Question 12

What is tubular compacting of knitted fabric?

Accepted Answer

Tubular compacting is a mechanical process in which tubular knit is pushed lengthwise between a heated cylinder and a rubber belt, so the loops are packed together and the fabric uses up its shrinkage before cutting. The result is much lower shrinkage in washing, typically only a few percent, and a slightly higher GSM. It is the basic method for tubular tees and sweatshirts. It does not remove twisting completely; that needs other measures. Ask for the shrinkage value after washing, not just a statement that the fabric is compacted.

Question 13

Open-width compacting: when is it used and what are its advantages?

Accepted Answer

Open-width compacting is done after the tube is slit lengthwise and is used for knits with elastane, for fine fabrics, or when strict width control and efficient cutting on a wide marker are wanted. The advantages are more even width, no centre fold line and better control of shrinkage, especially lengthwise. The drawback is that the knit has to be slit, so the tubular advantage for side-seam-free tees is lost. Choose according to the product and the way it is cut.

Question 14

What shrinkage in washing is acceptable for knitted fabric?

Accepted Answer

For most cotton knits, the shrinkage accepted in trade is roughly 3–5% in length and width after one wash, and some buyers ask for 2–3% or less. The value depends on fibre, structure and test method. Elastane and compacted finishing reduce it, while uncompacted cotton, especially light single jersey or pique, can exceed 8–10%. Always ask for figures in length and width, after how many washes and at what temperature. Do not accept no shrinkage as a promise.

Question 15

How do I test shrinkage before cutting a full lot?

Accepted Answer

Cut a square or rectangle from the actual roll, mark 50 cm distances in length and width, wash and dry as the future care label will say, then measure again. The difference in percent is the shrinkage. Test at least a few rolls from the lot, not only the commercial sample, because lots can differ. Laboratory standards (for example ISO 6330 for washing and ISO 5077 for measuring) give the exact method, but a three-sample workshop test is already useful before cutting in volume.

Question 16

Why does a T-shirt twist after washing (spirality) and can finishing help?

Accepted Answer

Sideways twisting of seams, called spirality or torque, appears when yarns are overtwisted, when the circular machine has few feeders, or when the tube was set off-grain in finishing. Finishing can reduce the problem through sufficient relaxation, correct compacting and straightening of wales on the stenter or compactor, but it cannot repair a wrong yarn or structure. For low risk, ask for a balanced-twist yarn or a tubular fabric with controlled torque, and test shrinkage in length and width separately. Cutting correctly along the wales also helps.

Question 17

Why is knitted fabric with elastane heat-set on a stenter?

Accepted Answer

Heat-setting stabilises dimensions and stretch: fabric with elastane usually passes on the stenter at about 170–195°C for a few tens of seconds, so width and GSM stay constant and the edges do not curl. If setting is too weak, the fabric keeps shrinking in washing; if too strong, the elastane loses power or the fabric yellows. Temperature and time depend on the fibre and the type of elastane. Ask for the finished width and the stretch recovery, not just the elastane percentage in the composition.

Question 18

What are the risks of heat-setting too hard?

Accepted Answer

Setting at too high a temperature or for too long can yellow whites and light shades, weaken the elastane, make the fabric stiff and alter the shade on polyester. Setting that is too weak leaves the knit unstable, with variable width and high shrinkage in washing. For cotton with elastane, a common compromise is a setting before dyeing and a light setting in finishing; for polyester, setting usually comes before dyeing. If you see yellowing or poor recovery, ask for temperature and speed details, not simply a new fabric.

Question 19

What is mercerising of knitwear and what does it improve?

Accepted Answer

Mercerising is a treatment with concentrated caustic soda in which cotton is held under tension so the fibre swells and becomes rounder. The result is more lustre, higher strength, better dye uptake and a deeper colour. For knits it is mostly applied to yarn or to fine fabrics for premium polos and tees, but it is harder than on woven fabric because knits are stretchy and distort. Cost is higher, and the hand becomes drier and finer.

Question 20

How does an anti-pilling finish work?

Accepted Answer

An anti-pilling finish reduces the formation of fuzz balls in three ways: removing protruding fibres (singeing, bio-polishing, shearing), using a combed or compact yarn, and applying resins that anchor the fibres. Pilling depends heavily on the fibre: polyester and its blends form pills more easily and hold them on the surface, while combed cotton pills less. A finish does not compensate for a weak yarn. Ask for a Martindale or ISO 12945 test on the finished fabric and the result after a stated number of cycles.

Finishing & performance

Why does finished knit fabric differ from greige fabric?

What are the finishing steps for a knitted fabric, in order?

What is singeing on knitted fabric and when is it used?

What is bio-polishing (enzyme finishing) on knitted fabric?

What is the difference between macro and micro silicone softeners?

Cationic or silicone softener: what should I know before choosing?

What is brushing (raising) on knitted fabric and what does it change?

Brushed on one side or both: what is the difference?

What is a peach finish (peaching) on knitted fabric?

What is carbon brushing and how does it differ from peaching?

What does shearing mean for knitted fabric?

What is tubular compacting of knitted fabric?

Open-width compacting: when is it used and what are its advantages?

What shrinkage in washing is acceptable for knitted fabric?

How do I test shrinkage before cutting a full lot?

Why does a T-shirt twist after washing (spirality) and can finishing help?

Why is knitted fabric with elastane heat-set on a stenter?

What are the risks of heat-setting too hard?

What is mercerising of knitwear and what does it improve?

How does an anti-pilling finish work?

What does pilling grade 4 mean and when is it enough?

What is a moisture-wicking finish and how does it work on knits?

How do you get a quick-dry knitted fabric?

What is an antibacterial finish on knitwear and what does it actually do?

How long do functional finishes last after washing?

How do cooling finishes work on knitwear?

How is a knit made water-repellent and what are the limits?

What does a PFAS-free water-repellent finish mean and is it as good?

How does a UV-protection finish work and what does UPF mean on knits?

Can knitted fabrics be flame retardant and how?

How do you get a silky hand feel on knitted fabric?

How do you describe the hand feel of a knit correctly?

How do you get a washed look on knitted fabric?

What is the difference between fabric washing and garment washing?

What is an acid wash or stone wash effect on knitwear?

How does finishing change the GSM (g/m²) of a knit?

How does finishing change the fabric width?

What should I specify to the mill for a correctly finished knit?

What is calendering of knitted fabric and what does it do?

What is an easy-care (anti-wrinkle) finish on knitwear and what are the risks?

What is an antistatic finish and when is it useful?

What is a soil-release finish on knitwear?

How do you get a crisp hand on knitted fabric?

Can finishing weaken the knit (over-finishing)?

Why does a production lot feel different from the approved sample?

Why does a T-shirt get softer after the first wash?

Why should fabric be left to relax before cutting?

Can snagging be reduced by a finish?

Why does new fabric smell and how do you remove the chemical odour?

Why does knit fabric edge curl and how can it be reduced?

Why does the colour shade change after finishing?

How do you get the finish of a premium heavyweight oversized T-shirt?

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